Football is almost synonymous with England. Londoners tend to carry the perception that the great sport runs through our veins. So, any continent that I’m on, especially South America, new encounters nearly always begin with some excited football chat.
With all that being said, I’m embarrassed to admit that I’d never actually gone to a match, even with the ridiculous amount of world famous stadiums in London.
So my travel through Colombia presented the perfect opportunity.
When I first moved to Medellin, by chance, my Laureles hotel was located close to the city’s football stadium, Atanasio Girardot.
Every Wednesday hundreds of cars and coaches, packed with excited fans, would jam the street. The daytime would be filled with vendors selling an assortment of football merchandise. And in the night the tremendous roars from the stadium would seep through the walls of my hotel room.
So when my friend and fellow nomad James, invited me to experience a football match, I jumped at the chance. Here’s Exactly how I did it:
What team to support?
Independiente Medellín
Independiente Medellín is an older team, having been founded in 1913, but less successful than Atlético Nacional. But the team still has a huge loyal following due to its important heritage.
Their main rival is Atlético Nacional, with the two fanbases Los Del Sur for Atlético Nacional, and Rexixtenxia Norte for Medellín, sometimes having physical fights. This has resulted in only one fanbase being allowed in the stadium when the two teams are playing.
The teams have played over 300 matches, spanning 70 years, with National taking the lead with 40 wins.
However Independiente Medellín still maintain a pretty good performance overall, having won Copa Colombia and Primera a few times. The clubs long history and heritage means families from all over the city like to enjoy the games.
Atlético Nacional
Atlético Nacional is the pride of Medellin, being the most successful team, winning 16 league titles, and coming 3rd in the league.
They play in Primera A which is the number one league and has them competing with the best teams in the country. This includes their main rival and nemesis Millonarios, from Bogota, as they are both recognised at the best teams in Colombia.
However if you want to see a Atlético Nacional vs Independiente Medellín game, known as a ‘Clásico Paisa’, you will have to buy your tickets a few days in advance and get there early. The Laureles area is jammed with traffic, and tickets sell out fast.
As a foreigner, Nacional is an easy team to root for due to their huge popularity and success. This is why you’ll see the green and white stripped banners and football shirts all over the city. You can buy the famous jersey from vendors in Carrera 70, or directly outside the stadium.
How to buy the tickets
So this process is a little tricky however you decide to do it; there are 3 ways.
Online
Atlético Nacional has a website that you can buy tickets from. My friend, who offered to purchase a ticket for me, used this method. An hour before the match he still hadn’t received the tickets, and finally, 45 minutes till kick off, he was told they were sold out.
The website is a bit hit and miss, and getting them beforehand in person may work out better.
For Independiente Medellín games you will need to download the app DIM Plus. However they do not accept international bank cards for payment. So unless you have a Colombian friends to help buy the tickets your best bet is purchasing them from the stadium .
Ticket Sellers
So James, who had no luck getting tickets online, told me to come to the stadium and buy a ticket there, as he had done.
With the most crucial nugget of advice, ‘Enter the stadium grounds before you buy a ticket off of anyone’, I made my way.
It’s confusing to know where exactly to get a ticket, as the ticket scouts look like regular people and just kind of linger about.
A stadium security guard called over a guy and told him I needed a ticket, he then ran off somewhere for 10 minutes and came back with a QR code and seat number on his phone. I gave him $50,000 pesos ($12 USD), after he showed me the ticket and went straight through the barriers.
Entering the stadium
- I was actually still trying to get my ticket as the match was beginning. So be sure to arrive at least an 1hr before it starts. Otherwise you will be queuing for at least 30 minutes or more, with thousands of other fans. The earlier you arrive, the less queue.
- Don’t come by car or taxi, as you’ll be stuck in hours of traffic both on the way there and back. The metro in Medellin is world class, the nearest station being Estadio Station.
- Alcohol within the stadium is strictly forbidden, so you won’t be able to buy a cheeky cerveza once inside. You’re also not permitted to bring alcohol inside.
Where to sit
So the whole process is a bit chaotic and in true Colombian style people just sit anywhere, as the seating isn’t well regulated.
The fans sing their heart out, the band passionately banging their drums the entire 90 minutes. The roar of the crowd is incredibly to hear.
However, it can get extremely rowdy, and you’ll see the riot police on standby. So although the lower south and north seating looks very fun, I would recommend sitting just outside of those areas, on the west or east. Close enough to be apart of the fun, but far away enough to not get hit by a bottle or an elbow.
The energy in the stadium is electric. You feel the base from the drums rumble through your seat the entire match. Everyone is super passionate, the excitement is infectious. Its honestly one big party. Even if you’re not into football, its still thoroughly enjoyable.
After the match
Being from London, football hooliganism is something I’m all too familiar with, and was surprised to learn its also a thing in Colombia, especially after very important matches.
So be sure to avoid all that mess, by heading straight to 70th Street (Carrera 70) to enjoy the afterparty. This strip of sports bars and local restaurants, is located directly outside the stadium, towards the Estadio metro. It’s where football goers gather after a weekend match, to have a few drinks and celebrate a win. Many fans also go here to watch the matches on television, instead of the stadium.
